Sunday 19 October 2014

The dessert goddesses at Pei Modern!!!


Wow.

It is not usual for us to visit a restaurant just to eat through their dessert menu. We visit bakeries, patisseries, cafes. However the Good Food Month gives us an opportunity to be even greedier and order the entire range of dessert offerings when we go for Sugar Hits (Let's Do Dessert 2014). And after Ananas and this, it will become a regular theme.

What is another first for us this month is being eager beavers and visiting Pei Modern on their 3rd night of business just for a dessert sitting. Our heads and palates are still reeling! We feel pretty special to be watching the action front on, hearing the distinct yet harmonious claps from around the space (as opposed to the dinging of the office reception bell). Six desserts for six excited sugar heads means happiness. Then there are the cheeses, ice wine and Pedro Ximenez. It reads euphoria.


Vanilla ice cream with tamarillo is the perfect finish to an evening: just the right amounts of creaminess and sweetness in the ice cream, complementing the tart tamarillo which lingers on and reminds us that it is the centre of attention. What a characteristic combination!

Duck egg sauternes custard and crostoli, made famous by the big name at the helm, Mark Best (Marque) and thanks to chef Phillip Searle, is concentrated decadence. Although 1.5 spoonful is plenty for each one of us, we can't help but imagine licking the egg shell clean of its sauterne quackness...

Meringue, white chocolate ganache, blueberries: sounds simple but the surprise in the "savoury" white chocolate ganache, scented by lime zest. It keeps us confused and content in the same mouthful! The blueberries aren't overpowered by the usually death-by-sugar white (*cough* fake) chocolate. Meringue is meringue and we love merinque. KM giggled at her idol KM's creation - how profound!

Spiced doughnuts, blood orange, whey butterscotch: we know for a fact that these two-mouthful-sized babies are there to keep us comforted. The blood orange pops out because it isn't the usual suspect (caramel, chocolate, creme patissier). Some say the blood orange is a little grainy but personally the balls hit the right spot by being unique.

Chocolate tart, eucalyptus, cream: so we declare the BEST tart shell/dish/pastry EVER and it is only 3mm thick. It cuts the rich but oh-yeah-baby dark chocolate. The gold-dusted salty flakes, are they the "eucalyptus"? Or it's the sinusitis? We must have been distracted by the non-conformist chocolate tart and missed the gum tree element. Yes, it is an excuse to revisit.

Sorrel sorbet, honeycomb: OH MY G... Who would have thought!? It reminds us of having tomato sorbet for the first time on an antipasto plate at La Brasserie. This is by far the most popular dessert of the evening. It feels like drinking homemade mojito and sitting barefeet on the grass in spring - refreshing! And that honeycomb, again, is perfect on its own. So is the sorbet. We want to eat this on tap!


Cheeses: Brigid's Well Holy Goat, Benison Blue and Pyengana 20-month clothbound cheddar. As our token Argentine cheese-Hoover dances tango, we consumed on his behalf these moreish dairy products, accompanied by quince and honeycomb. Our tastebuds are cleansed by the Canadian Ridgeside Vidal ice wine and NV Romate "Cardenal Cisneros" Pedro Ximénez. Life is best at moments like these...

Wow. From booking to saying goodbye, we are overwhelmed by the extended familiarity. Mr Best says he knows who we are. Uh-oh... We don't much enjoy being too famous like him but the apron that he is wearing again after faux retirement does suit very well. Kylie Millar clearly has the talent to impress, mentored by Dagmar Slobodnikova, the behind-the-scene head pastry chef with 20-odd years of experience. You are now the dessert goddesses and we are eternally grateful!

Yes, we will definitely return to eat real food - that is, the entree and main plates. After all, desserts are fairy food: it keeps us high in la-la-sugarland and the calories are not real. The calories are not real. The calories are not real...

Hsinner

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